Woolwax® FAQ

What is the difference between Woolwax® and other lanolin film type products ?

Woolwax® is made from lanolin/woolgrease. It contains more woolgrease and is more resistant to wash-off than competitive products. In short...Woolwax® lasts much longer, has almost no smell, very little over-spray because it is thicker, and is available in clear and Black.

* Woolwax® is made from woolgrease (lanolin) which is an excellent corrosion inhibitor & Lubricant.

* Woolwax® is solvent free, safe, non-hazardous, environmentally friendly.

* Woolwax® has a proprietary process to remove the woolgrease smell which can be very strong and some people do not care for it.

* Woolwax® is formulated to be more viscous (thicker) than any other lanolin based corrosion inhibitor, thereby being more resistant to road-wash. Woolwax® may need to be warmed up in front of a floor heater in cold weather before applying.

* Woolwax can be easily sprayed with the "PRO" Undercoating Gun from Kellsport Products. Woolwax® being thicker, has much less overspray (misting).

Woolwax® is geared more towards the industrial user, professional undercoaters, or users in areas with heavy amounts of road slush that may want a slightly thicker product for more resistance to wash-off with very little noticeable smell.

What is Woolwax® ?

Woolwax® is a lanolin (wool-wax) based, solvent free corrosion preventive designed for use on any known metal. Woolwax® has a thixotropic viscosity that allows for a thick and drip free coating. Woolwax® leaves a soft, grease-like self-healing film that can be applied by brush or spray applicator gun. Woolwax® will not dry out and will penetrate metals to the base, providing corrosion protection in highly corrosive atmospheres like those found in industrial or environmental settings. Woolwax® has proven to be an exceptional vehicle undercoating product.

Applied annually to the vehicle undercarriage, frame, doors, etc., Woolwax® will provide excellent rust protection for any vehicle. Because Woolwax® is solvent free, there is no evaporation process. Woolwax® coating in protected areas such as doors, frame rails, rocker panels, etc. will provide protection indefinitely (years). The exposed area of the vehicle undercarriage is an annual maintenance application. A Woolwax® treatment in the fall is generally adequate to get the vehicle undercarriage through the winter/salt season. Woolwax® is not a rust remover or converter, however Woolwax® can be applied over existing surface rust. Woolwax® will form a heavy film and prevent moisture and oxygen from reaching the existing rust. Thereby stopping it on contact. Heavy bubbling or flaking rust should be wire brushed before applying Woolwax®.

Does Woolwax® Dry ? Or Stay Wet ?

Woolwax® does not dry. When applied Woolwax® will create a wet gel-like barrier that moisture and oxygen cannot penetrate. Without moisture and oxygen there can be no oxidation. because Woolwax® is non-drying, it is always active and migrating into the inaccessible areas of the doors, seams and folds of the sheet metal, and all the other difficult to reach areas. Woolwax® is very thick and will not wash off easily. An annual application will easily protect your vehicle through the snow/ice/salt season. In the enclosed areas, (doors, frame rails, rockers, etc.) the Woolwax® will provide protection indefinitely (years). It is only the exposed areas of the undercarriage that should be coated annually with Woolwax®.  

Woolwax® seems very thick. How is it applied ?

Woolwax® is very thick. We formulate it to be as thick as possible, yet easily sprayed. Woolwax® is a heavy duty industrial grade lanolin vehicle undercoating that will survive the harshest weather and provide rust protection longer than any other annual undercoating. Woolwax® is thixotropic, and will thicken as it sits. Before applying shake or stir Woolwax® vigorously. In cold weather it helps to warm up the Woolwax®. This can be easily done by placing the container in a warm area , or placing the spray gun bottles in warm water. Woolwax® is best applied using a Woolwax® undercoating gun. These guns are modified specifically for the waxy texture of the lanolin/woolwax.

Woolwax® can also be painted on surfaces depending on the application.


Is Woolwax® too thick for the inaccessible areas (doors, frame rails, etc.)

Absolutely not.  The traditional Woolwax® formula will creep and migrate into all the inaccessible areas without any issue. We do make a thinner formula of Woolwax® called Woolwax® “LV”.  Woolwax® “LV” is primarily used by customers in areas that do not get much snow and very little road wash (slush). We have had traditional Woolwax® and Woolwax® “LV” tested for migration qualities and they are almost identical. Some customers just prefer to spray a thinner version of Woolwax® similar to other low viscosity lanolin products. If this is the case, then Woolwax “LV” will work for this application. However, for almost all automotive undercoating applications the traditional Woolwax® can be used in all areas.

If you are really concerned about the viscosity of Woolwax in the interior areas, you can easily thin it out with any inexpensive vegetable oil. Vegetable oil is very compatible with lanolin. Add 1/3 vegetable oil to 2/3 Woolwax. You just need to measure about 2” down from the top of the plastic quart bottle and fill with vegetable oil. Only use this thinned version in the enclosed protected areas that are not exposed to road-wash.

Does Woolwax® have a strong odor ?

No. Unlike other vehicle undercoatings Woolwax® has almost no smell at all. Through a proprietary process we have neutralized almost all of the strong lanolin/woolgrease odor. Also, because there are no solvents, there is no "chemically" smell to Woolwax®.

What type of compressor is needed to apply Woolwax®? How much psi?

Woolwax® undercoating guns do not require much pressure. 70 – 90 psi is usually adequate. Sometimes the extension wands require a bit more pressure if it is cold out. Even small compressors generally operate at about 125 psi. More important is the tank size. If the tank is very small, you will be constantly waiting for the compressor to recover. Generally speaking, any compressor with a tank 3 gallons and larger will work fine. If the compressor is adequate for spray painting, it will work fine for vehicle undercoating.

Can Woolwax® be applied with an airless spray system?

Yes. We do not recommend airless systems for do-it-yourselfers because of the dangers of the very high pressure (2000-3000 psi). That being said, many of our high volume undercoaters do use airless sprayers and the feedback is that they work extremely well with airless spray systems. The recommended tip size for Woolwax® is tip # 213.

What color is Woolwax®

Woolwax® is available in a straw color, which appears fairly clear when applied. Woolwax® is also available in black.


Where is Woolwax® made?

Woolwax® is manufactured 100% in the U.S.A. The only raw material imported is the woolgrease, because it is not available here. Everything other raw material, and the packaging, labels, boxes, tint(black), is proudly manufactured in the U.S.A.

Where can I get my vehicle treated with Woolwax®?

We have hundreds of undercoaters throughout the country that apply Woolwax® to customers vehicles. Enter your zip code on our website under “Find an Undercoater”. If there is no location near you, consider purchasing one of our Do-It-Yourself kits. All you need is a small compressor. Woolwax® is non-toxic, non-hazardous, and very easy to apply.

Is the Woolwax® spray aerosol the same as the bulk product (Gallons, etc.)?

Yes.  The aerosols are the exact same formulation as the bulk product.  However, because it is under extreme pressure, and approximately 1/3 of the can is propellant, it will spray out in a finer mist. Once all the gas escapes a few minutes after spraying, you are left with a nice heavy coat of Woolwax®.   Also, the using aerosols will be a bit more expensive than bulk product.  We have thousands of people that undercoat their vehicles with Woolwax® aerosol spray cans and the results are excellent.  In addition, we have certain municipalities and State DOT's that only use aerosols to coat their snow removal vehicles and they have been doing it this way for years.

What is the shelf life of Woolwax®

The shelf life of Woolwax® is indefinite. There are no solvents, so nothing to harden or evaporate. The aerosol spray cans are guaranteed for (1) year because the propellant can weaken after time.

Can Woolwax® be applied with a pump (garden type) sprayer?

No. Woolwax® is too thick to flow through any type of garden sprayer. (We have tried most of them.)

How can I thin Woolwax® if it is not flowing through my gun good enough?

Woolwax® is thixotropic and will get thicker as it sits. The first step is to mix it up extremely well. Warm up Woolwax® by placing it in front of a heater or placing in warm water. If it still needs to be thinned, you can mix in a small amount of vegetable oil until it is at the desired consistency.

If you are really concerned about the viscosity of Woolwax in the interior areas, you can easily thin it out with any inexpensive vegetable oil. Vegetable oil is very compatible with lanolin. Add 1/3 vegetable oil to 2/3 Woolwax. You just need to measure about 2” down from the top of the plastic quart bottle and fill with vegetable oil. Only use this thinned version in the enclosed protected areas that are not exposed to road-wash.


Can Woolwax® be applied over existing rust?  My vehicle is older and already rusted.

Woolwax® can be applied over any existing surface rust. Woolwax® will stop the rust from progressing on contact by creating a film barrier that will prevent moisture and oxygen from getting to the base metal. Woolwax® is not a rust converter or remover. Any heavy bubbling or flaking rust should be brushed off before applying Woolwax®.  It is never too late to treat your vehicle with Woolwax®.  It may be rusted, but you can do a great deal to stop the rust from progressing with a good treatment of Woolwax® at the beginning of each snow/ice season.   


If Woolwax® stays wet, will dirt, sand, grass and stuff stick to it?

Because Woolwax® is non-drying, Woolwax® will attract an initial coating of sand/dirt. Anything that may adhere can easily be rinsed off with a low pressure garden hose. Because Woolwax® contains no solvents, it will not become tacky or sticky and create a dirt buildup. Many of our professional Undercoaters advise their customers to drive down a dirt road after Woolwax® application. They say that the outer coating of sand gives the coating an extra layer of protection, and stops salt from sticking to it.. Years ago when they used to undercoat with motor oil most people were always advised to drive on a dirt road as soon as possible. There must be something to this strategy, as it is still recommended by many professionals today.      

Woolwax® is very thick and does not wash off easily. Anything dirt or salt that may adhere can easily be rinsed off with a low pressure garden hose. 


How do I clean the undercoat gun after use?

Our Undercoat guns do not need to be cleaned after use when using with Woolwax®. Woolwax® undercoating is solvent free, so there is no evaporation or hardening process. The Woolwax® left in the bottle will thicken over time. But you can restore to its original viscosity by shaking vigorously.

Some people do prefer to clean the gun and wands. To do this we recommend just putting some solvent (acetone, mineral spirits, paint thinner, etc.) into one of the bottles and spraying a bit through the gun. Some people just put water and dish washing liquid into the bottle, and they say that it works fine.

Most people just leave the gun loaded and ready to go without doing anything at all. That way you can do a quick touch-up or spray some outdoor power equipment with almost no setup time.

Bottom line……. Don’t worry about the undercoat guns when using Woolwax®. They won’t clog.


How often does my vehicle need to be undercoated ?

Woolwax® is an annual maintenance application. A Woolwax® treatment will easily provide protection through even the harshest of winter conditions. Woolwax® is extremely resistant to wash-off. Woolwax® contains no solvents, so there is no evaporation process. In the protected enclosed areas (doors, frame rails, etc.) a single treatment will provide protection for an indefinite period of time (years). The exposed area of the undercarriage should be re-treated annually. There is no need to remove or power wash the existing Woolwax®. Simply give it a rinse with a garden hose to clean it up a bit, and apply a fresh coat right over the existing Woolwax®. Many of our Undercoaters suggest treating vehicles in the warmer weather so that the Woolwax® creeps and migrates into all the inaccessible areas.


How long does it take Woolwax® to dry?

Woolwax® works by creating a wet film barrier that prevents oxygen and moisture from reaching the base metal. Woolwax® seals off any existing rust and stops it from progressing on contact. There is no need to wait to use any vehicle or any item that is treated with Woolwax®. It forms a long-lasting film gel barrier to provide protection.


If Woolwax® stays wet, won't it wash off ?

Woolwax® is extremely resistant to wash-off because it is so thick. In the enclosed protected areas Woolwax® will last for years. The exposed areas of the undercarriage needs to be reapplied annually.
Woolwax® forms a lanolin film barrier on the base metal that moisture and oxygen cannot penetrate. Without these (2) components, corrosion cannot occur. Because Woolwax® does not dry, it is self-healing. If something scrapes it or road debris hits it, the Woolwax® will "gel over" and repair itself.

Can I take my vehicle to a car-wash after being treated with Woolwax® ?

During the winter salt/snow season we don't recommend any high pressure washing of the vehicle undercarriage. A low pressure rinsing with a garden hose will not remove the Woolwax®, as it is very resistant to wash-off. Many car-wash facilities can turn off the undercarriage wash as you go through. Some charge extra for the undercarriage wash to be turned on.  We have many users tell us they they regularly take their vehicles to the car-wash during the winter, and it has no effect on the Woolwax® coating. That being said, we still don't recommend washing the undercarriage during the winter season with any high pressure systems.

Can Woolwax® be used in high heat areas ?
No. Lanolin responds very quickly to heat. The flash point for Woolwax® is 202° C or 395° F.  It will start to smoke and burn off at 100° C or 212° F.

Are there any places that I should avoid when undercoating my vehicle with Woolwax ®

There is not much to avoid. Naturally try to keep the Woolwax® away from the brake rotors. Woolwax® has a very high flash point (>400°), so in any of the hot areas like mufflers, oil pans, etc., it will just burn off within a few minutes.  Woolwax® works well to protect electrical wiring and electrical connections. Woolwax® is non-conductive.  Make the connection (battery terminals, etc.) and then apply.

Many people have concerns about Woolwax® on rubber materials. Almost everything on an undercarriage is oil resistant. We have had no known issues of Woolwax® having any negative effects on oil resistant rubber components. We have seen discussions about rubber breaking down and failing through the normal deterioration process. Rubber does dry out, cracks, and fails during its normal life cycle. Some people believe this may be a result of an undercoat application, but more than likely the rubber component has just reached the end of its life cycle through normal deterioration and exposure to vehicle heat and road chemicals.

We have heard of issues with the soft spongy rubber weather strips around the bottom of the door frames. This is an open-cell sponge rubber and is not oil resistant.  There have been reported instances of this type of open-cell soft rubber swelling up when being exposed to lanolin-based products.

Do not apply Woolwax over any factory soft coatings or wax coatings.

There have been no known incidents of Woolwax® having any negative effect on any paint or plastics. If you do get some over-spray to the paint, just rub it in like a car wax. There is no need to remove it.

Can I apply Woolwax® over GM factory wax undercoating?

The short answer is “no”.  The GM factory wax does not react well to anything being applied on top of it. That being said, the GM was is a short term solution with a protection life of (1) year or less. After a year or so it begins to fail and falls off leaving unprotected areas. Many of our Undercoaters use the following protocol for GM factory wax:

·        If the vehicle is newer and the wax is in good condition, they will apply Woolwax® everywhere that the GM wax is not applied.

·        When the wax starts to fail (after a year or two). They have (2) options.

1)     Apply Woolwax® over the failing GM wax with the understanding that it will cause it to fall off in some areas. Then they go back and retreat (just the exposed areas of the undercarriage) in a month or so to protect areas where the wax fell off.      Or…

2)      They powerwash off what is left of the failing GM wax and apply a clean coat of Woolwax® undercoat.


How cold is "too cold" to apply Woolwax® ?

Do it as early in the season as possible. September/October is ideal. It should be at least in the 50's for good results. We have mobile Undercoaters that are still spraying in the 30's, but it takes some work to keep the Woolwax® from thickening. One trick is to heat up a pot of water and let the quart bottles full of Woolwax® float around in it. As the one you are using gets to thick, you can swap it out and put it in the water to warm up. Even in a heated garage you have that ice cold air coming from the compressor to chill and thicken the Woolwax® in the bottle. The lower temperatures are a challenge, but it can be done. To get the Woolwax® to spray through the extension wands on the Pro Gun, you may need to boost up the psi to 110-125 psi. 

My Woolwax® PRO Gun does not seem to spray well. What can I try ?

  • Make sure the Woolwax® has been stirred or mixed very well.
  • If you are having an issue, fill one of the quart bottles with water and try. If it works with water, we know the gun is operating fine.
  • The Woolwax® may need to be warmed in cold weather. Store it inside. Place container in front of a floor heater for 5-10 minutes if necessary.
  • When the brass nozzle is screwed all the way in, it is in the "closed position". Nothing will come out. Back the nozzle out at least 1/2 way.
  • Increase the Pressure up to 110-120 psi if necessary. Normal operation is 70-90 psi.
  • Flexible extension wands- In colder weather to warm the Woolwax®, and increase the pressure (110-120psi) to push the Woolwax® through the wands. Do not screw the extension wands in very far on the gun. Screw them in just a turn or two so that the connection is made. Hold the trigger down for a few seconds to give the Woolwax® a chance to flow. The extension wands are generally used in areas that are protected from the elements (doors, frame-rails, etc.). If necessary you can thin the Woolwax® with some vegetable oil to get it to flow through the wands in colder weather.
  • Keep in mind that the very cold air coming from the compressor will cause the Woolwax® to thicken. You may need to switch bottles as they get cold.
  • If you cannot resolve any issues, please just give our techs a call at 888-341-4600. We will take good care of you. 

Can I apply Woolwax® over what's left of another undercoating? I had my vehicle undercoated with another product and most of it washed off too quickly, smelled too much, or dripped too much in my driveway / garage.

Yes.  We get this question all the time. Woolwax® (lanolin) is compatible with every other annual maintenance coating that we are aware of.  On non-drying products, the lanolin in Woolwax® will work it's way to the base metal and provide excellent corrosion protection for long periods. Woolwax® is much more resistant to wash-off than any other non-drying coating, has almost no smell, and is a very viscous non-drop formula.  There are some vehicles that have a soft-wax coating from the factory (GM). Woolwax® should not be applied over this wax coating, or any soft factory coatings. It may cause the factory coating to de-laminate and fall off.


How much Woolwax® does it take to undercoat a vehicle ?

A mid-size SUV like a Ford Escape will take about 3/4 gallon. Any full size pickup will take every bit of 1 to 1 1/2 gallons. It all depends on how aggressive you get with your vehicle undercoating. Some people are satisfied with just shooting the exposed area of the undercarriage. Others want to get every possible area including in the doors, frame rails, rocker panels, etc.   If you use Woolwax® black color, you will use a bit more. Our Undercoaters tell us that when they use black, they are essentially changing the color of the undercarriage and they find themselves going over every little nook and cranny to make sure that it's black. Most of our Undercoters that use black, will use the Straw(clear) color in the enclosed protected areas. Keep in mind that Woolwax® has no solvents, so there is no evaporation process. That means that in the enclosed protected areas, those areas will be protected for an indefinite time, years.  Only the exposed area's of the undercarriage and wheel wells need an annual application. 


Is there any difference between the Woolwax® Straw(clear) and Woolwax® Black color ?

No difference. Exact same formulation.  Color should just be a matter of preference. If the vehicle is relatively new, with little rust, we highly recommend the "Straw" (clear) Woolwax®.  It's a cleaner application and you can see year after year how the Woolwax® is performing (no rust!).  If the vehicle has significant rust and you want to make it look much better, or you just like the "Black Woolwax®", go for it. It sprays on easily and looks great when applied. Many Woolwax® users will use a combination of the colors. They will use the Woolwax® Black for the bigger exposed/rusted areas, and the Straw color for inside all the protected areas (doors, frame rails, etc.) that cannot be seen. Our Undercoaters tell us that when they use the Black color on a vehicle for the 1st time, they will use about 20%-30% more than they would use in the Straw color. They say that since you are essentially changing the color of the undercarriage, they find themselves going over and over every little brown spec and spot that is not black. After the 1st year it is not an issue.


Can I tint or add something to Straw Woolwax® to make it Black ? 

It will not be very colorfast.  We have tried many tint/pigment additives and none held up well. They separate and wash off fairly quickly. Our Woolwax® Black is made as a black product during the extreme heating and cooling manufacturing process. There is nothing to separate as the molecular formulation is black. 


Should a mask be worn when applying Woolwax® ? 

Absolutely. Woolwax® is non-toxic and non-hazardous. However you should never breath in any fine spray particulate, or any of the dust/salt particulate that comes off the bottom of the vehicle. We recommend any mask that is adequate for any sanding/painting application.


Should I apply a rust converter or something similar before applying Woolwax® ?

The answer to that is like trying to get a firm answer from a lawyer. Our lab has always taken the position that for the lanolin to embed itself in the pores of the metal, it should be untreated. But they also say that an extra protective barrier to prevent any oxygen or moisture from reaching the metal surface is certainly helpful. So if the rust is just light surface rust most people just apply Woolwax® right over it. Any heavy bubbling rust needs to be brushed off. My own personal opinion, and that of some experienced Undercoaters, is that if the rust is easily accessible, take the extra time to either really brush it clean, or treat it with a converter or something similar. And then apply the undercoating on top of that. It seems to make sense (to me anyway) to treat the existing rust, if it's easy to get to, and then apply the Woolwax® to prevent additional rust from occurring.


Should I wash my undercarriage before applying Woolwax® ?

Most of our Undercoaters recommend at least a general wash down of the undercarriage before applying the undercoating. However, others say that it is not really necessary as the Woolwax® will penetrate and displace any existing dirt grime or salt residue.

Does my vehicle undercarriage need to be completely dry before applying Woolwax ?

No, it does not need to be fully dry. Woolax® will displace any existing moisture. But you do not want any puddling of water. Many of our Undercoaters will rinse the undercarriage and then blow off any excess water with a leaf blower. And then let it sit for 30- 60 minutes to dry a bit. 

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